Ask about Grace "Pete" Jackson in this part of north-central Texas, and you'll hear only nice things. She started this revered restaurant in 1948 and though she died in 1998, her spirit remains. In fact, the spare, rustic dining room looks much like it did half a century ago, from vintage booths to the wagon-wheel chandeliers.
Over the years, it has attracted attention from the Food Network's Bobby Flay and Playboy magazine, which once held a shoot here. Your waiter may act disapointed if you pass on the calf fries, but you have to be in the right mood (sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't).
Be that as it may, the quail quarters make for a tasty appetizer. While the rib steak, served with melted butter on top, is great, many customers' favorite is the eight-ounce club steak, a surprisingly tender small T-bone minus the usual filet.
Two final instructions: Preorder your one-pound baked potato before three o'clock in the afternoon (it's that good) and don't even try to stop at one bite of the homemade coconut pie.